Follow the diagram to make your own pattern for your pants based on your measurements, then follow along with the step-by-step sewing tutorial.

Note: In this tutorial, I use ‘fabric’ that I created using leftover fabric scraps and remnants. If you want to learn how I did that so you can reuse your fabric scraps too, check out this tutorial.

Make Your Pattern:

• Measurements you need:
• Waist
• Length of leg from waist to ankle
• For the front and back pant legs:
• start with a rectangle the length of your leg.
• The width will be your waist measurement divided by 2 + 4inches (this allows for some overlap between the front and the back so the side of the pants doesn’t gap open.)
• Front crotch seam: make a curve 12 inches down and 3 inches in from the side (don’t worry about making this curve perfect, just generally the same shape as the diagram below)
• Back crotch seam: Repeat what you did for the front, but make it 5 inches from the side instead
• Bottom of pants for both front and back: Move the bottom of the pants 4 inches in and connect the crotch to this for the inseam.
• Make a mark 8 inches down on both the front and the back (this is a reference point that we’ll use when sewing)
• For the cuff: make a rectangle that is 16 inches by 7 inches (This should work for most people, but you can make it longer if a 16 inch circumference does not fit around your foot)
• For the waistband tie (you will cut 2):
• Make the tie twice the length of your waist (so there is enough to tie the waistband) and 2 inches wide.
• You also want to make reference marks on the waistband so that you know how far to gather the pants. The marks should be half of your waist +4 inches apart. Make sure they are centered on your waistband (see diagram below)

* The measurements I give you for the I center crotch seam are meant to make it loose so that it will fit most body types. However, if you are very tall or have a bigger bottom, you can lengthen or widen the crotch measurements for a better fit.

PDF pocket pattern

Step 1

---

hem the diagonal edge of the pockets and press the opposite two sides

Make a 1/2 inch hem on the diagonal edge of the pocket. Then press the seam allowance of the two opposite sides (the sides not touching the hem).

Step 2

---

sew the pocket to the side of the front pants

Line the pocket up with the top and side of the front pant pieces and edgestitch it along the two sides that you pressed under in the previous step. Baste the side that line up with the top and side of the pant leg.

Step 3

---

sew the front and back pant together up to the dot

with right side together, sew the outer side seam of the front and back pant pieces. Only sew from the bottom up to the dot that you made as a reference point earlier (8 inches from the top of the pants).

Step 4

---

narrow hem the area above the dot

Make a narrow hem on both the front and back pieces to fold over the fabric at the top 8″ of the pants and keep it from fraying.

Step 5

---

sew the inseam of the pant legs

fold the pants so the inseams line up and sew with right sides together.

Step 6

---

place one pant leg inside the other and sew the crotch seam

With right sides together, put one pant leg inside the other. Line up the crotch seam and sew it. Then turn your pants to the right side.

Step 7

---

add gathering stitches along the top front and back

Sew wide gathering stitches (by machine or by hand) along the top edge of the front and back pant pieces.

Step 8

---

gather the top of the pants

Use the marks you made on the waistband to know how far to gather your pants. The final width of each of your pant tops should be half of your waist plus 4 inches.

Step 9

---

sew the waistband to the pants

Center the waistband on the pant tops and sew through all layers with right sides together.

Step 10

---

fold the waistband in half and sew

With right sides together, fold the two sides of the waistband in half (the parts that are extended from the waistband). Then sew them.

Step 11

---

turn waistband to right side

Turn the waistband extensions to the right sides, these will be the ties for your pants.

Step 12

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fold the waistband over and sew it to the top of the pants

Now you have the center of your waistband still flapping free. Fold it over the reverse side of the pants, encasing the gathering stitches, and topstitch through all layers.

Step 13

---

fold the cuffs in half and sew

With right sides together, fold the cuffs in half and sew them into a loop.

Step 14

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fold the cuffs in half with wrong sides together

Fold the cuffs in half with wrong sides together.

Step 15

---

gather the bottom of the pant legs

Sew long gathering stitches along the bottom of both pant legs, and pull the stitches until they are the same size as the cuff.

Step 16

---

sew the cuff to the pants

With right sides together, sew the cuff to the pant leg.

Finished!

To wear the pants, tie the front behind you. Then tie the back of the pants around the front. Tuck the bows into the front and back pants to hide them.

The post Easy Tie-On Pants Tutorial for Costumes appeared first on .

The pattern was made for a a 3/4 length pant, but you can just lengthen them or shorten them to whatever size your character requires. Print out the pattern that I made for this, or follow the instructions to make your own.

Sewing Pattern PDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

* Note: This pattern will comfortably fit someone to a hip width of about 48 inches. You can make the entire pattern wider by using a starting rectangle that matches your wait measurement, and creating your pattern from there.

or Make Your Pattern:

• Measure your waist and the length you want your pants to be.
• Start with a rectangle the length of your leg and your waist measurement (this will make one pant leg, front and back, so the final pants fabric will fit around your waist twice)
• Front crotch seam: make a curve 12 inches down and 3 inches in from the side (don’t worry about making this curve perfect, just generally the same shape as the diagram below)
• Back crotch seam: Repeat what you did for the front, but make it 5 inches from the side instead
• Bottom of pants: Move the bottom of the pants 4 inches in on both sides and connect it to the crotch for the inseam.

* The measurements I give you for the I center crotch seam are meant to make it loose so that it will fit most body types. However, if you are very tall or have a bigger bottom, you can lengthen or widen the crotch measurements for a better fit.

Step 1

---

hem the top of the pockets

Make a 1/2 inch hem at the top of the pocket.

Step 2

---

fold over the seam allowance for the pocket

Fold over the seam allowance on the remained three sides of the pocket. Baste in place if necessary.

Step 3

---

sew the pocket to the pant leg

Center the pocket on the pant legs. Make the top of the pocket 8-12 inches down from the top of the pants. (typically if you are shorter make the pocket higher up. If you are taller make the pocket lower down.)

Note: You can make two pockets if you want to. I like to use one and always put it on the right pant leg so that I can tell at a glance which side is the front and which is the back when wearing the pants without using a clothing tag.

Step 4

---

sew the pant inseam

Fold the pant legs in half with right sides together and sew the inseam for both legs.

Step 5

---

sew the pant crotch seam

With right sides together, place one pant leg inside the other. Then line up the crotch seam and sew. Turn the pants to the right side.

Step 6

---

fold over the top to form a casing

Fold over 1/2 and inch along the top edge. Then fold another 3/4 inch and sew along the bottom to form a casing. You want to leave a small gap in the stitches so you can insert the elastic.

Step 7

---

insert the elastic into the casing

Cut a piece of 1/2″ elastic that is the size of you waist. Then insert it through the casing. Make sure the elastic isn’t twisted and sew it into a loop. Then sew up the gap in the casing.

Step 8

---

hem the bottom of the pants

Hem the bottom edge of both pant legs.

Finished!

The post Basic Flowy Pants Tutorial for Costumes appeared first on .

First, I’ll walk you through how to create the sewing pattern based on your measurements, then the step-by-step tutorial. Have fun!

Make Your Pattern:

• Measure your overbust, right at armpit level.
• Measure around your underbust. (The diagram below shows this as the smaller measurement, but this may be bigger or smaller than the overbust depending on your body)
• Measure the distance between the overbust and underbust, then add 2 inches. (the 1/2inch at the top and bottom will be the elastic casing)
• Draw your pattern, according to the diagram below, using these measurements. (You will cut out two of these in both the main color and the lining color, so the final circumference of the fabric will be twice your measurements)
• Don’t forget to add seam allowance

Step 1

---

sew one side of the bandeau top

With right sides together, sew just one side of the bandeau and the bandeau contrast color.

Step 2

---

sew the two contrast colors together on the top and bottom

With right sides together, sew the two contrast colors along the long edges.

Step 3

---

fold the bandeau in half inside itself and sew one side

Fold the bandeau in half with right sides together (This means it will be folded into a tube-like structure inside of itself). Then sew one half of the bandeau

Step 4

---

turn the bandeau right side out and press

Turn the bandeau to the right side through the open half. Then press it to make the seams nice and flat.

Step 5

---

add a line of stitches on both sides to form casings

Add a line of stitches 5/8″ down from the top and 5/8″ up from the bottom to form casings for your elastic.

Step 6

---

fold over the fabric between casings and hand sew it closed

Fold the gap in the fabric and sew up the area in between the casings. There should still be a gap for inserting elastic and the top and bottom.

Step 7

---

insert elastic into the top and bottom casings

Cut two pieces of elastic that are equal to your overbust and underbust measurements. Then insert them into the elastic casings. Try on the bandeau and pull the elastic until it feels comfortable and secure. Then sew it into a loop and sew up the gap.

Finished!

The post Basic Bandeau Tutorial for Summer Cosplays appeared first on .

I created a sewing pattern that you can use for this (print it out below), or you can follow the instructions to make your own pattern based on your measurements.

Sewing Pattern PDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

* Note: This pattern will comfortably fit someone to a hip width of about 48 inches. You can make the entire pattern wider by using a starting rectangle that matches your wait measurement, and creating your pattern from there.

Make Your Pattern:

• Measure your waist and the length you want your pants to be.
• Start with a rectangle the length of your leg and your waist measurement (this will make one pant leg, front and back, so the final pants fabric will fit around your waist twice)
• Front crotch seam: make a curve 12 inches down and 3 inches in from the side (don’t worry about making this curve perfect, just generally the same shape as the diagram below)
• Back crotch seam: Repeat what you did for the front, but make it 5 inches from the side instead
• Bottom of pants: Move the bottom of the pants 4 inches in on both sides and connect it to the crotch for the inseam.

* The measurements I give you for the I center crotch seam are meant to make it loose so that it will fit most body types. However, if you are very tall or have a bigger bottom, you can lengthen or widen the crotch measurements for a better fit.

Step 1

---

hem the top of the pocket

Make a 1/2 inch hem at the top of the pocket.

Step 2

---

press under the seam allowance for the pocket

Fold over the seam allowance on the remained three sides of the pocket. Baste in place if necessary.

Step 3

---

sew the pocket to the pants

Center the pocket on the pant legs. Make the top of the pocket 8-12 inches down from the top of the pants. (typically if you are shorter make the pocket higher up. If you are taller make the pocket lower down.)

Note: You can make two pockets if you want to. I like to use one and always put it on the right pant leg so that I can tell at a glance which side is the front and which is the back when wearing the pants without using a clothing tag.

Step 4

---

sew the inseam of the pants

Fold the pant legs in half with right sides together and sew the inseam for both legs.

Step 5

---

sew the center crotch seam

With right sides together, place one pant leg inside the other. Then line up the crotch seam and sew. Turn the pants to the right side.

Step 6

---

fold over the top to form a casing

Fold over 1/2 and inch along the top edge. Then fold another 3/4 inch and sew along the bottom to form a casing. You want to leave a small gap in the stitches so you can insert the elastic.

Step 7

---

insert elastic into the casing

Cut a piece of 1/2″ elastic that is the size of you waist. Then insert it through the casing. Make sure the elastic isn’t twisted and sew it into a loop. Then sew up the gap in the casing.

Step 8

---

fold over the bottom of the pants to form casings

Repeat step 6 for the bottom edge of the pant legs. Creating casings for the cuffs of your pants.

Step 9

---

insert elastic into the casings

Cut pieces of elastic that will comfortably fit around your ankles (usually around 8-10″) and insert them into your casings. Sew the elastic into a loop and sew up the gap in your casing stitches.

Finished!

The post How to Make Basic Harem Pants for Costumes (sewing pattern included) appeared first on .

Sewing Pattern PDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

Step 1

---

sew the zipper to the zipper bands

with the zipper facedown, line up the edges and sew close to the zipper teeth. Press the bands away from the zipper.

Step 2

---

sew the base to the zipper

With right sides together, sew the base to the zipper band to form a loop.

Step 3

---

sew the front and back to the zipper band

with right sides together, sew the side band around the onigiri front and back, easing the fabric around the curves. Keep the zipper slightly open before sewing this part, then turn it to the right side through the open zipper.

Step 4

---

fold over the edges of the nori and baste them

fold over the seam allowance on the nori rectangle. Baste it in place.

Step 5

---

sew the nori to the base of the onigiri

Fold the nori around the base and over both sides. open the zipper all the way and edgestitch to sew the nori in place. Once sewn, remove the basting stitches.

Finished!

The post Onigiri Coin Purse Tutorial appeared first on .

Sewing Pattern PDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

Step 1

---

trace the bag pattern onto the back of the faux fur and cut it

Trace the front and back bag pieces onto the bag of the faux fur. Then cut it out very carefully using small snips of the scissors up close to the fur backing. The goal is to cut the backing without cutting too much of the fur.

Step 2

---

apply interfacing to the lining and side bag pieces

Apply interfacing to the lining top, lining bottom, and side bag pieces.

Step 3

---

sew the side bag

Comb the fur toward the inside of the pattern pieces. This is to keep the fur from getting caught in the seam. Then sew the front and back to the side bag piece. Leave half an inch (the seam allowance) unsewn at both sides.

Step 4

---

sew the tabs

fold the tab in quarters (like belt carriers) and sew them closed.

Step 5

---

baste the tabs to the side bag

Fold the tabs in half and baste them to the sides of the bag.

Step 6

---

interface on side of the arrow flap

Step 7

---

add one side of the magnet to the arrow

Step 8

---

sew the two arrow pieces together

with right sides together, sew the two arrow flap pieces.

Step 9

---

turn the arrow flap to the right side

clip all the corners, then turn the arrow flap to the right side.

Step 10

---

press and top stitch the arrow

Press the arrow so it’s nice and neat, then topstitch along the outer edge.

Step 11

---

sew the arrow flap to the back of the bag

Sew the arrow flap to the back of the bag one and a half inches down from the top of the bag. The magnet should be facing up.

Step 12

---

flip the arrow and sew to encase the raw edges

Flip the flap over the seam, and topstitch through all layers a quarter inch from the end.

Step 13

---

sew a magnet to the front of the bag

Fold the flap around the front and sew a magnet where the flap meets it.

Step 14

---

hem the upper edge of the pocket

Step 15

---

baste the seam allowance of the pocket

Step 16

---

sew the pocket to the lining

Step 17

---

sew the zipper to the zipper strips

Place the zipper face down on the zipper strip and sew. Then repeat the process with the other side of the zipper. Press the strip away from the zipper and topstitch if you want to.

Step 18

---

sew the upper lining to the zipper strip

Sew the top lining to both sides of the zipper strip

Step 19

---

sew the bottom lining

With right sides together, sew the top and bottom lining. The zipper strip will be sandwiched between the lining layers. Leave the seam allowance on both sides unsewn.

Step 20

---

turn the bag inside out

Step 21

---

sew the bag to the lining and understitch the lining

Place the lining inside the bag with right sides together. Then sew along the upper edge, NOT the sides. Understitch the lining layer, by edgestitching the lining to the seam allowance.

Step 22

---

sew the side to the lining

Sew the side lining to the lining, leaving a gap in the bottom. You also want to leave the seam allowance at the ends unsewn.

Step 23

---

sew the lining to the side bag

Now you want to sew the the side a side lining together (this is why we left the seam allowance unsewn in previous steps, you’re sewing that now)

Step 24

---

turn the bag to the right side

Reach through the gap in the bottom and through the zipper to turn the bag to the right side.

Step 25

---

sew the lining closed

Hand stitch or machine stitch the bottom of the lining closed

Step 26

---

Tuck the lining inside the bag

Step 27

---

sew along the length of the strap pieces

With right sides together, sew the two strap pieces along the length.

Step 28

---

Turn the strap to the right side and press

It’s useful to use a loop turner or similar tool to help if you’re struggling to turn the strap out. You can also edgestitch the strap if you desire.

Step 29

---

add clips to both ends of the strap

Fold the fabric over the clips and sew in place. Then all you have to do is clip the strap to the tabs on the bag and you’re finished.

Finished!

The post Tutorial: How to Make an Adorable Appa Fur Purse appeared first on .

Sewing Pattern PDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

Step 1

---

sew the panels together in groups of three

With right sides together, sew the hat panels in two groups of three.

Step 2

---

sew the two sides of the hat together

Line up the two sides of the hat with right sides together, and sew along the center line.

Step 3

---

apply buckram to the brim

You can also use a heavy weight interfacing if you prefer.

Step 4

---

sew the brim together

With right sides together, sew the two brim pieces along the curved edge.

Step 5

---

turn the brim to the right side

Turn the brim to the right side and top stitch for a clean finish

Step 6

---

sew the brim to the hat

Center the brim on one of the panels and sew it around the hat opening.

Step 7

---

sew the lining together

Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the lining.

Step 8

---

sew the lining to the hat

Place the hat inside the lining and sew around the perimeter. Leave a gap in the stitches so that you can turn it to the right side.

Step 9

---

turn the hat to the right side

Step 10

---

close the gap and topstitch the edge

Sew the gap in the lining closed and topstitch all the way around the edge of the hat to give it a clean finish.

Finished!

The post Tutorial: Anime-Style Newsboy Hat appeared first on .

Check out more DIY belt tutorials

Step 1

---

Make your obi pattern

I’ve digitized my pattern if you want to print that. You’ll just need to adjust the length of the belt so that it fits around your waist plus 3 inches for overlap. You can use a ribbon instead of the long fabric rectangle if you prefer.

sewing Pattern pDF

Step 2

---

cut out your fabric pieces

Cut two belt pieces on the fold and two long, narrow rectangles for the ribbon. The front and back fabric don’t have to match.

Step 3

---

cut out and apply the interfacing

Cut 2 interfacing on the fold and fuse it to the two fabric pieces.

Step 4

---

sew the ribbon

Double fold the ribbon the same way you would fold belt carriers or bias tape, then sew down the length of the ribbon.

Step 5

---

baste ONE ribbon to one side of the belt

Put the other ribbon aside, it will be added later.

Step 6

---

sandwich the ribbon between the two belt pieces and sew them together

Leave a gap in the center of the belt for turning it out.

Step 7

---

turn right side out

The ribbon should be sewn into the center of one side.

Step 8

---

press the belt flat and sew up the gap

You can hand sew with an invisible stitch or machine stitch with matching thread.

Step 9

---

sew the second ribbon on the other side of the belt

Sew it about 3 inches in from the edge of the belt so that it will be at the spot where the belt wrap overlaps. Start with the ribbon facing in toward the center of the belt.

Step 10

---

flip the ribbon and sew again to cover the raw edges

After sewing in place, fold the ribbon over so that now it faces the end of the belt. Sew close to the fold.

Finished!

The post Tutorial: Obi-Style Belt for Anime Costumes (free pattern) appeared first on .

sewing Pattern pDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

Step 1

---

sew the zipper to one fox head bottom piece

place the zipper face down on one fox head bottom piece and sew it along the edge. Then press the zipper away. It’s okay if the zipper is a little longer.

Step 2

---

repeat step 1 for the other side

Step 3

---

sew the fox face to the zipper piece

with right sides together, sew the fox face pieces to both sides of the zipper.

Step 4

---

fold over the seam allowance of the nose pieces and baste in place

you will need to cut off the excess fabric that sticks out from the edge of the nose.

Step 5

---

sew the nose to the fox face

place the nose in the center of the fox face and edge stitch it in place.

Step 6

---

fold the zipper pouch in half and sew

with right sides together, fold the pouch in half and sew. You can sew through the zipper and cut off the excess tail. Open the zipper before sewing.

Step 7

---

turn the pouch to the right side

clip the corners and curves and turn the pouch to the right side through the zipper

Finished!

The post Tutorial: Fox Shaped Zipper Pouch (with free sewing pattern) appeared first on .

sewing Pattern pDF

(all of my patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance)

Step 1

---

Apply interfacing to the bag, side bag, and strawberry top pieces

Apply heavy interfacing to the Strawberry bag and side bag pieces. Apply a medium interfacing to 2 of the strawberry top pieces.

Step 2

---

sew the strawberry tops together

Sew the two sets of strawberry tops with right sides together. Leave the top open.

Step 3

---

turn the strawberry tops to the right side

Clip the corners and turn the strawberry tops to the right side

Step 4

---

top stitch the strawberry tops

Top stitch around the perimeter of the strawberry tops for a neater finish.

Step 5

---

sew the strawberry tops to the wrong side of the strawberries

Sew the tops to the wrong side of the strawberry bag pieces

Step 7

---

sew the side bag together in the center

Sew the side bag together along the center seam.

Step 8

---

sew the side bag to one side of the strawberry

With right sides together, sew the side bag to one of the strawberry bag pieces. Leave the seam allowance at the top of the bag unsewn.

Step 9

---

sew on the other side of the strawberry

Repeat the previous step with the second strawberry piece. You can finish your seams however you like. In this case, I used bias tape to secure the side seams of the bag.

Step 10

---

turn the strawberry to the right side

Step 11

---

turn the leaves to the right side and top stitch

Flip the leaves over to the right side of the bag and top stitch with a matching thread to neatly hold them in place.

Step 12

---

narrow hem the sides of the bag

Make a narrow hem on both of the short sides of the bag.

Step 13

---

fold the tabs and sew

Fold the sides of the tabs to the center and then fold them in half to encase the raw edges. Then sew the tabs closed.

Step 14

---

fold the tabs in half and sew them to the sides of the bag

Fold the tabs in half and them sew them to the sides of the strawberry bag.

Step 15

---

sew along the length of the strap pieces

With right sides together, sew the two strap pieces along the length.

Step 16

---

Turn the strap to the right side and press

It’s useful to use a loop turner or similar tool to help if you’re struggling to turn the strap out. You can also edgestitch the strap if you desire.

Step 17

---

add clips to both ends of the strap

Fold the fabric over the clips and sew in place. Then all you have to do is clip the strap to the tabs on the strawberry bag and you’re finished.

Finished!

The post Tutorial: Strawberry Purse (with free sewing pattern) appeared first on .